Why everyone talks about it
In recent years the term “ancient grains” has become almost a trend. From Senatore Cappelli to Timilia from Sicily, more and more people are choosing these cereals as an alternative to modern wheats, often linking them to greater digestibility and health benefits. But what’s the truth behind it?
What are “ancient grains”
Ancient grains are wheat varieties cultivated before the large-scale selections of the Green Revolution (1950s–60s). They are often taller, less productive, and less suited to mechanization, but rich in genetic biodiversity. Famous examples in Italy include Senatore Cappelli, Russello, Timilia, and Perciasacchi.
Modern wheats, on the other hand, are the result of breeding programs that selected shorter plants (to avoid lodging), with higher yields and technological qualities suited to industrial bread and pasta production.
Nutritional differences: myths and facts
One reason why ancient grains are appreciated is their nutritional composition. Studies have highlighted some differences:
- Proteins and gluten: ancient grains often have a similar or slightly higher protein content, but with a different gluten composition. Certain gliadin proteins, involved in immune reactions, appear less abundant in some ancient varieties. This could make them more digestible for some individuals, but it does not mean they are safe for people with celiac disease (who must still avoid them).
- Micronutrients: ancient grains may contain higher levels of zinc, iron, and antioxidants (such as polyphenols and carotenoids), probably because they were less intensively selected for yield alone.
- Glycemic index: some research shows a slightly lower glycemic index in bread and pasta made from ancient grains, meaning a more gradual release of sugars into the bloodstream.
Effects on health
Several clinical studies have compared diets based on ancient versus modern wheats:
- In people with metabolic syndrome, consuming bread and pasta from ancient grains reduced some inflammatory markers compared to products made from modern wheats.
- In subjects with non-celiac gluten sensitivity, some trials report greater tolerability with ancient grains, though the evidence is not yet conclusive.
- In general, ancient grains seem to promote a more balanced metabolic response, likely due to the combination of fiber, antioxidants, and gluten composition.
It should be noted, however, that many of these benefits also depend on processing methods: sourdough bread, less refined flours, and fewer industrial additives all contribute significantly.
The limits of ancient grains
If ancient grains have nutritional advantages, they also come with weaknesses:
- Lower yields: they can produce up to 40% less than modern varieties, making them more expensive.
- Adaptability: they are more vulnerable to diseases and lodging (when plants fall to the ground).
- Limited availability: often grown in small areas, they cannot meet global demand.
For this reason, modern wheats remain essential for global food security.
In summary: complementary, not enemies
Saying that ancient wheats are “better” and modern ones are “worse” is too simplistic. The former offer biodiversity, taste, and micronutrients; the latter provide yield, stability, and accessibility. The future challenge is to bring the genetic diversity of ancient wheats into modern breeding programs, creating varieties that are productive, nutritious, and sustainable.
Sources:
- Sofi, F. et al. (2013). Health and nutritional properties of ancient wheat: an intervention study on humans. Journal of Nutritional Biochemistry, 24(12), 1792–1799.
- Shewry, P.R., & Hey, S.J. (2015). The contribution of wheat to human diet and health. Food and Energy Security, 4(3), 178–202.
- Leoncini, E. et al. (2012). Molecular basis of wheat intolerance in non-celiac gluten sensitivity. Nutrients, 4(9), 1186–1197.
- Dinu, M. et al. (2018). Consumption of ancient wheat products improves glucose and lipid metabolism. Nutrients, 10(6), 779.